Summer Two Piece: The Tutorial

Okie Dokie, here we go...due to overwhelming interest (4 people, I think) here is the requested tutorial so that you can make your very own Summer Two Piece ensemble!

 

When I whipped it up it was really a very simple project, and it still is in step by step form, it just seems like a bit much when it's all broken down.  But stick with me and by the end you'll have a few outfits from these two simple little pieces.

Before we begin I have to clarify two very important things:

#1- I do not know anything about pattern drafting.  This is just a series of some rectangles slightly adjusted, it's not couture, so please don't get your undies in a knot if I'm not doing something the way "it's supposed to be done"
#2-The measurements I'm using are to fit my body.  As I've mentioned before, I'm very small busted (about a 36 A or B).  I think most grown women are little more well endowed than I am (can you use that phrase for women?) so make adjustments to suit your body.  If you're more 'bossomy' then make your pieces a little wider, if you're longer in the torso, make your pieces longer.  It's not rocket science, just experiment.  Think of mine as an extra-small and make your pattern bigger as needed.  Just think about how store bought patterns look, they just expand by about 1/4" - 1/2" for each size up.
#3- I'm going to break this down into two parts, the pattern and then the sewing.  It's going to seem long, but trust me, the whole process can be done in about an hour.
#4- I'm writing this as if I'm writing for beginner sewers.  If it seems too simplistic, consider yourself an intermediate sewer.  Congratulations!

Here we go....

To make your pattern, here's what you need:

Supplies:
- Craft or tissue paper
- Ruler or measuring tape
- Pencil and paper scissors

Steps:
1) Start by drawing a basic rectangle.  This should be the length of your top plus about 3" for seam allowance and bottom casing.  The width should be a couple of inches wider than your widest part of your torso for a loose fit.

2) In the upper right  LEFT hand corner (that should say LEFT below, sorry about that) measure and mark as below.  We'll use these measurements to soften up the edges a bit.

3) Extend your measurements to the corners as shown.  These new lines will be your side and top edges.

4) Round out your top edge by just free hand drawing a slight arc in the line.

5) Do the same for the bottom edge.

6) That was your front piece.  Now we need to make the back.  It's almost the same but shorter because it sits lower on your back.

7)  It's difficult to see, but basically it's the same idea, measure in around 3" from the RIGHT top corner, connect to bottom to create angled side seamand slightly curve up the top edge.

8) As a little extra something I added a lining or "shelf bra" inside.  Tube tops are always better with this added feature and it's super easy to add.

9) Don't forget to make the back of your lining (which I almost did!).  I actually didn't even make a separate piece.  I just used the back that we already made and drew a broken line about 5.5" down from top.  Once I've cut out my back I'll just fold this up and use it to cut my lining.

OK, that's your pattern pieces.


PART TWO: Sewing your top

Here's what you need for this section

Materials:
- Your pattern pieces
- Scissors and pins
- Narrow and Wide Elastic (if you have lingerie elastic for the narrow elastic it's best to use that)
- Stretch fabric and matching thread
- Sewing Machine

Steps:
1) Cut out your pattern pieces on your fabric.  CUT ALL PIECES ON A FOLD.
(Sorry, I'm showing you this on ivory fabric which may make it hard to see the stitches, but as I said a couple of weeks ago, I'm using up my stash and this is what I had on hand.  No trips to the fabric store until I use up what I have!)

I almost missed the back of my bralet, but  it's there
at the top of your back piece.
Don't forget to cut it out too!

 2) We're going to make your 'bra-let' first.  With right sides together, sew your side seams and finish with a zigzag or serge, whatever you usually do.

4) Measure about 2-3" from each side and pin.  Measure another 4" or so from your first pins.  Baste long stitches in between your pins and gather slightly.

5) Measure a piece of the narrow elastic around your torso, under your bust line.  Cut a piece that is a comfortable length and sew together by overlapping the ends.  You should end up with a loop of elastic (that isn't twisted).

6) Divide your loop of elastic in quarters.  The easiet way to do this is the pull the sewn piece to one end and mark the other end with a pin.  Now, bring the two pins together and pin the other ends.  Now you have marked off quarters.  Do the same with the bottom of your bralet.  Now, match up your pins and pin your elastic to the bralet, having edges even.  Make sure you elastic is on the right side of your fabric.

7) Using a narrow seam allowance, sew your elastic down, pulling as you go making sure it's somewhat even.  You can use a zigzag and stitch over the inside edge.

8) Now we're going to make the body of your top.  Start the same was as the bralet by sewing the front and back together along the side seams.

9) All right, it's coming together!  We're almost there.  Now, slip the bralet inside of the bodice, WRONG sides together.  Pin the upper edge so it's even all the way around.  You can baste this edge if you want now.

10) Using your 1" waist band/wide elastic, cut a piece that fits comfortably around the top of your chest area. 

Follow the same steps to adhere this to the top of your bodice as we did to the bottom of the bralet.

11) Once you have your elastic sewn onto the top edge you just fold it under and press.  This is what give you the seamless look rather than a casing and it's what makes this top special!

12) If you want a blousy look for your top, just sew a small casing along the bottom edge, insert elastic, and close. Measure the elastic to fit loosely around your hips. Don't make the loop like we did before. Just use a safety pin and feed it into the casing, stitch the ends together, and then close the casing.

And that is it!

I know what you're saying. "Uh Tamara...that's only one piece!  Where's the bottom?!?!"  Guess what...you already know how to do it.   Just click your heels three times and say there's no place like home.  Oh wait, sorry, that's something else.

Seriously though, you now have the skill, the tools, and the knowlege to make the skirt.  Just make a rectangle about an inch wider than your hips and angle it out, curve up the bottom edge just slightly, add your elastic to the waistband just like we did for the top of the top, and hem it.  There you go!  You've created your own skirt.  Look at you, you'll be an intermediate sewer in no time~

Now, the four of you who requested this tutorial better get sewing because I want to see your creations!  Have fun and just go for it.  If you want a more casual look, sew a tie on the front.  if you want a dressier look, lengthen the skirt and add a slit.  Make it your own.  I can't wait to see what you come up with~

Happy sewing!

Mini Me Shirred Dress

A few weeks ago I showed you how to make your own Shirred Summer Dress.  I didn't have it completed at the time, but I also made a mini me version for my niece:

I think what she likes best about me making clothing for her is that she gets to model it for me.

I usually direct the first half the of photo shoot and then she takes over with her own ideas. Here's her version:

She's even cuter when she's being a goofball~

Summer Versatility

At first glance I know what you're thinking...big deal, another tube dress.  Right?  But this is no ordinary tube dress.

I wanted something blousey and not so form fitting.  So, this is actually two separate pieces that will take you from day, to evening, to work, and back to day again!

I love the top on it's own with pants!

And the skirt can easily be worn to work with a slightly more conservative top.

But if you need something to wear to your next patio party, pair it with a contrasting top!
This would be an excellent addition to your vacation wardrobe too!

This is another 'beyond easy' project.  It's just two tubes cut from T-knit fabric that are slightly A-line instead of straight rectangles.  There's 3/4" wide elastic at the top of the skirt and the top and 1/2" elastic at the bottom of the top so that it drapes nicely.

I just whipped this up on the spur of the moment but if you guys want a step by step tutorial let me know.  I like this so much I wouldn't mind two!

Shirred Summer Dress

Since we seem to be on a bit of a super easy summer fashion roll lately, why stop now?  Let's add a really cute maxi dress to your halter and new purse to round out your hot weather wardrobe!

This project is so easy and can probably be completed in less than a couple of hours if you skip a couple of the mistakes I made.

Here's what you need:

-Cotton fabric (the length that you want your dress + approximately 4" for hems)
-scissors
-regular thread, elastic thread, wooly nylon thread
-pins
-sewing machine

Steps:
1) I used a light weight cotton print that was fairly narrow already, less than 45" (115 cm) I think. So,  I just used the full width of the fabric.  If you're using a wider fabric you may want to trim it back to at least 45" wide unless you want more volume.

2) Before you do anything you need to pull out your manual for your machine to learn how to do a rolled hem.  I used my serger and added wooly nylon thread to the upper looper.

Every machine does this differently so I'm not going to get into settings and plates and all that, just take a look at your machine manual and it will tell you all you need to know.

This isn't the perfect rolled hem.  On my serger I only use one needle for this stitch.  I didn't thread the other needle but I was lazy and also didn't remove it, which I should have.  If had removed it I wouldn't have the loopy bit on the inside edge.  In the end it's not noticeable because it ruffles but I know it's there, and unfortunately, I have to live with it now.  Boo hoo for me~

If you don't want to venture into rolled hem land, just do a regular narrow hem along one end of your fabric.
3) Hand wind your bobbin with your elastic thread, pulling just slightly as you wind.

4) Place your bobbin in your machine as usual.  If you have a quilting arm, insert that now to help you to space your rows of shirring evenly.

Sorry, my camera really doesn't like my sewing machine
or vice versa.  In any case, they don't get along,
so a couple of these photos are blurry.

Quilting Arm
attaches to my machine behind the needle.

5) Once you're all set up you can start sewing straight lines of stitching, 1/2" apart to create the bodice of your dress.

As you go along your fabric should start to gather itself up and look like this:

Inside of dress (wrong side of fabric)

6) Now, if you're more voluptuous and curvy than I am, you might be able to leave the stitching as is.  If you're shaped like a teenage boy, like I am, then we'll have to do an extra step.  Pull your threads along one side until your fabric width measures somewhere in the following ranges:

Small: 16-19"
Medium: 20-23"
Large: 24-29"

In all likelihood, you had some lines of elastic stitching that started or stopped in the middle of your line.  That's OK.  Just pull from the start of the stitching, making sure to knot it when you're done.

WARNING: Do not get carried away and pull your stitching way, way, way too much....like maybe I did.  Also, don't start pulling your threads until you've finished sewing ALL of your lines.  If you do, continuing to add lines will become more and more challenging....again, I may have learned this the hard way.  Come one, gathering is fun though right?  It's easy to lose control~

Also...DO NOT CUT your elastic bobbin thread until you are absolutely sure your bodice is going to fit around your body.  Yeah, yeah, OK, add that to my list of learnings from this project that I got the hard way.

 If you cut and you've pulled your gathers too far, there's nothing to let out after.  It's fixable, but trust me, just don't go there.
7) OK, now that you've not done all the things I did, and you're absolutely sure that your fabric will fit around your chest area, you can sew a seam down the open edge of your fabric.  This will be the back or side seam, depending on how you decide to wear it.

Make sure to leave an opening from about the knee area down (unless you're going for something ultra sexy and then you can go as high as you want you sexy momma!).  If you don't leave an opening, it may be difficult to walk in this dress, and you may end up looking a bit like a well dressed penguin...and that's just not so attractive in the middle of summer~

8) Last step, hem the bottom to fit your body.

And that, is that!  Whew!

I was hoping to show you the matching dress I'm making for my niece, but it's still sitting on my sewing desk, so that will have to wait.  It's going to be ultra cute though!

This really is beyond easy and it's a great project for a beginner sewer.  I bet all of you mommy to be's would find this super comfy too!  Use shirring on the waistband of a skirt or the arms of a blousy blouse!  The options are endless.  Once you get the knack of it, it goes super fast.

Examples of shirring from Wikipedia:

This cotton day dress of 1836–40
 features shirring on the upper sleeves.
Victoria and Albert Museum.

Here is a close-up of shirring done on the shoulder area during
 the garment construction from a 1925 vintage dress pattern.
Photo provided by Love to Sew Studio

Let me know if you give it a go.  I always love to see projects that are inspired by something you find here!

Also, if you're looking for more awesome, and FREE sewing projects and patterns, head over to Allfreesewing!  I'm sooooo lucky and have not one, not two, but three of my projects featured on their home page right now.  But that's not why I'm leading you there.  It's just a great community with loads and loads of ideas for all sewers and crafters.  Check it out~

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